A brand I could NOT wear for the Paris fashion week was Ulyana Sergeenko. Its retro touch with details of Russian folklore is now inevitable during the Couture week. I had to wear at least a garment of this wonderful brand that still manages to create garments with a strong and decisive aesthetic, bringing on the catwalk a combination of decadent glamour and Russian costume.
On this occasion I wore a skirt with a mink edge. It is a cashmere skirt with a splendid mink rim that crowns the piece, making it magically enchanting. Given the length of the skirt and its rich materials, I find it perfect to cope with that bitter winter cold. Obviously, we must take into consideration the fact that this brand originates from Russia, which means that is designed for a high-located clientele who wants to look the best possible on every occasion, still keeping a relatively conservative look. The classic touch of the Russian costume is combined with the designer’s fashion sense, resulting in a captivating and unique aesthetic.
For those unfamiliar with the brand, it could be described as simple, elegant, and faithful to traditions. Ulyana draws on the history of its country and the tradition of artisan production to offer her collections. Simplicity with an almost mystical elegance reaches couture levels when it meets the tailoring skills of the masters of the Russian ateliers. In less than a decade the brand has managed to grow so much thanks to its intrinsic value of traditions and class, also managing to dress prominent conservative personalities such as the Sheikha Moza of Qatar.
But the brand not only develops splendid creations with enveloping and feminine silhouettes, but it also marries rich materials such as fur. For example, I took one of my favourite looks from the autumn/winter 19 collections to highlight how the brand collaborates with the Finnish leather auction house Saga Fur and elaborates the material.
This look is a grey cashmere coat with a fox fur element with natural black shades and a black leather belt that emphasizes the waist. We can appreciate how fur is used in this case. In a look completely indicative of the glamourous aesthetic sense of the designer, the fur covers the sleeves and creates an asymmetrical skirt, giving volume to the garment. But moreover, the fur is also in contrast with the simplicity and smoothness of the coat’s cashmere bust. An exploration of shapes and use of the material that goes beyond the simple composition of a rim or a collar, but expands on a studied structure that gives life to a wider imagination in its being.
Photos: Matteo Volta